Note: This Guide will be focusing on the production of the artwork and assumes you have previous knowledge with a design software. If you do not, I recommend checking out some of other workshops (or YouTube) before going forward. I HIGHLY recommend learning Inkscape, as it is a free, open source Illustrator alternative for people who do not have access to Adobe Illustrator. While Canva is a popular software– it is focused to design for web and some print, put not really for the kind of production in the Makerspace.
For this walkthrough, I will be using a vector-based Illustrator design on a Windows Machine. The workflow outside of the design stage will remain the same, as the software works the same on Windows and Macs.
Preparing Your Design:
This can be made in either raster or vector programs, just know vector art tends to come out more crisper and Can be more easily scaled than raster-based artwork. Make sure your file is A4 Sized (8.27 x 11.69 inches) and set to 300 DPI.
For those working in vector, you can download our template for Illustrator [link]or Inkscape [link], or create your own. Once again setting it to A4 size at 300 DPI.
Here is where you can find the preset settings in Photoshop/Illustrator/Inkscape/Procreate. As A4 is a standard size outside of the US, most design softwares should have this size as an option. (For those using other software I didn’t mention like Affinity/Corel/Clip Studio Paint.)
Regardless of program remember to make your design ENTIRELY BLACK AND WHITE/TRANSPARENT. And make sure any text is mirrored!
If you’re using Illustrator, saving as an AI will do. Any other software you will need to export your file as a PDF— if you can’t for any reason– a high resolution transparent PNG or JPG can work. ScreenMaking is one of the rare export software that won’t accept SVG/DXF/EPS files.
If you are using Procreate, you will need to upload it to a computer with the ScreenMaking application.
Once you have your image, open up the ScreenMaking software.
On the far top right select Chose Image File and find your file.
Adjust as needed in the software. Do not send– you need to prepare the screen first.
Setting Up the Screen:
If there are not any pre-stretched screens, you will need to stretch it onto the frame. Depending on the level of detail, you may need to choose a specific grade (70, 120, 200). More on those below. The Makerspace has some pre-cut 120 Mesh provided by our vendor, as well as rolls to cut on your own if they run out.
Make sure the side of your frame with the arrow is facing down and the square hole on the frame is in the bottom left corner.
Apply the double-sided tape to each side but not covering the holes. You want to keep it inside. Once happy with your tape placement, remove the protective layer to apply the screen.
Cut your mesh to size and stretch as tight as possible. You want to apply it with the shiny side down.
(These holes can be used as registration if you are doing layered designs.)
Choosing the Right Mesh:
As stated above, we only have 120 Mesh in the Makerspace, but it’s worth sharing if you are interested in exploring it yourself. They grade of mesh determines the level of detail and substrate use.
- 70 Mesh: Basic Mesh for textiles and fabrics. Good for less detailed designs.
- 120 Mesh: Fine Mesh for textiles, fabrics, ceramics, wood and paper. Good for medium detailed designs.
- 200 Mesh: Ultra-fine Mesh for paper, plastics, glass, metal, textiles, fabrics, cotton, ceramics, and wood. Good for very fine and heavy details.
Setting Up and Operating the MiScreen:
You may need to move the MiScreen to the workbench so it can properly unload.
Once plugged in, turn on Machine and Plug in your computer to the MiScreen. Both the switch and USB port will be in the back. You will know it’s on by the solid green light.
When ready, select Send Image the far bottom right of the Screen Making app. The MiScreen will blink as the data is sent to the machine. You will see an animation on how to operate the MiScreen.
Insert the frame arrow-side up, matching the arrow on the MiScreen. There will be two pins the frame will set the frame into.
Press the cover switch (press with your hands on the logo it needs a lot of pressure ) and hold until the frame stops moving. Let go of the button and remove the frame.
If you intend to use plastisol inks, I recommend taping pennies or washers to the the corners to the screen to five them a little more space. Plastisol is much thicker than Speedball, and this will lessen the chances of flooding.
Printing:
Please make sure you are using the right kind of ink, specifically for fabric. At the Makerspace we have Plastisol Red, Yellow, Blue, Black, and White. If you want a particular color (like the glow-in-the-dark ink I am using in my example), you can buy Speedball brand ink from Blick or Amazon, or any screen printing ink sold from specialty shops. Please note there are different kinds of Ink (Plastisol, Acrylic, Water-based and more), so you may need to do a little research depending on your project.
PERSONAL RECOMMENDATION: The ideal project would be to work with Speedball inks, however we have lots of plastisol ink here free to use, so feel free to use that versus buying your own ink. I would keep substrate size between the metal pins so anything A4 or A5 or or smaller. This press is great for fabric patches, totes, and watercolor paper prints, but hit-and-miss with tee shirts as they block or are too large for the press to work as it needs to.
Things may not always screen perfectly, as you may have too much or too little ink, move the screen during lifting, etc, a lot of human error compared to say, sublimation or heat transfer vinyl. For a Makerspace production one should embrace the imperfections of your print!
Please make sure your item is ironed and without wrinkles. Putting some butcher paper on the table below, place the ironed item in the center, and align your screen. The screen should be shiny side up/arrow side down. You may want to tape/weigh down to keep it from moving. We want to the surface to be as tight as possible.
Use the wood blocks provided with the quick clamps on the edge of the table. This will help keep the frame or frame/press from moving a bit, as you’re trying to press against it.
If you’re printing a shirt/bag or using the press properly, make sure to tape down the chipboard as a spoil board. (I used this one for this demo)
Please wear gloves and some sort of smock or clothing you do not mind getting ink on. With the plastisol ink, stir the ink before use. With the spatula, apply the ink onto the screen, and squeegee the screen to spread the ink over the entire design. Keep it to one direction. When satisfied with the coverage remove the screen and let the ink dry. For Speedball you can air-dry overnight for sealing but it is not recommended for plastisol (I have done it with no issue, but Ideally you want to blast it with the heat run until it’s dry before sealing.)
If you’re done with your screen, remove it and the tape and remove any residual adhesive. The good news is with the MiScreens, you can re-mount it at anytime, or put it on another MiScreen frame. So make sure your old screen is stored somewhere flat where no creases can occur.
Your print will likely look much better than this– it could have been many other factors but that’s the point of experimenting!
TIPS:
- Don’t mix ink types if you can. Stick with plastisol if you’re using the plastisol, and vice versa with the Speedball.
- Your screen may not print as clean over time due to not getting everything off and just overall multiple uses. (So cleaning and drying repeatedly. My second design (not shown) This is normal, but if you wish to make a new screen, that’s always an option!
Sealing:
Regardless of what ink you use, heat sealing helps make it last longer, and is a mandatory for plastisol inks.
First with the heat gun, you’re going to go over the design for a few moments, making sure every part of the design has been sufficiently dried. It can be a bit tacky, we just don’t want the ink to fully come off the parchment paper. There will be a strong plastic smell when in use and when heat cured, as plastisol is PVC-based, so that is normal and will fade once done.
Place your item on the Cricut press mat and place a piece of parchment paper over your design (if it’s a bag or a shirt, I also recommend sticking a second piece inside just in case!) On top of that, place the provided teflon sheet on top– this will protect your fabric from scorching or getting discolored from the heat.
Everything listed is assuming you flash dried it out with a heatgun or air dried prior.
- ANY Ink on Fabric: Dry with the heat gun first, 325°F and press for 15-20 seconds.
- Plastisol: If failing that, try 350°F to 365°F 10 to 15 seconds.
- Speedball on Paper or Gesso Canvas: Air Dry; does not need heat seal.
Clean Up:
Using the spatula, scrape off and return the excess ink off the screen and squeegee to the container; making sure to scrape away from the design. You may gently wipe it down for excess ink.
With the provided spray bottle, spray the shiny side and gently wipe and dab away to remove as much of ink as possible. Wait for the screen to dry if you plan on using the same design but different color to minimize mixing. (You can use water on both side but be careful to keep the design as ink free as possible.)
If ink winds up on skin, wash as soon as possible, staining may remain for a few days after. (There is Gojo pumice soap in the back closet if need be.)
Use the wood cleaner or the surface wipes (in the back closet) to clean up any ink that is left on tables.
Paper Towels, and butcher paper can go in the trash can, but dispose of all gloves in the small red biohazard container, as per B&G’s request. If the container is full, let me know!
